ERCIM News No.39 - October 1999

MtoM3D - Made-to-Measure Garments

by André Gagalowicz

The MtoM3D research project aims to develop the market and the value of the apparel products made in Developing Countries by adapting existing industrial solutions to the plus-size sector, a made-to-measure-based activity. Expert knowledge leads the design of a pattern-alteration system, prototyping and validation being achieved in a 3D simulation of the adapted garment.

Traditional made-to-measure methods and equipment are analyzed to establish a set of alterations for 2D patterns in order to provide a standard model for a set of plus size mannequins. This set of mannequins represents different conformations of human bodies that belong to the plus size sector. This set of mannequins helps to determine the size of the garment from a standard size chart. The garment patterns from this standard size are altered using a standard apparel grading system. Then, available 3D data of a mannequin are used to develop a realistic simulation software that takes into account fabric parameters describing the fabric mechanical properties of a simulated garment in order to numerically dress it on a simulated 3D mannequin. The simulation of draping effects are controlled by comparison with the draping of a real mannequin. At this stage of the project, we have the digitized 2D patterns for a plus size mannequin and a procedure to simulate how a 3D mannequin wears a garment built for these patterns. Here, we merge this information to study the simulation of an adaptation of a standard size to a plus size garment. The results are validated by mounting manually the computed altered patterns on the real plus size mannequin which is compared to the 3D computer simulation.

Draping simulation

The software will be validated and merged into a unique software package including a set of numerical mannequins for plus size body conformations, a set of alterations and grading capabilities to adapt a standard garment to these plus size standard mannequins, a set of commercial garments compatible with the system and a friendly user interface. The input for the software is a conformation, a size, a type of fabric and a style of cloth chosen. The software delivers a 3D image of a mannequin wearing a garment with the corresponding conformation, size, cloth and type of style.

Technology Transfer

In the textile industry, there are strong relationships between industrial partners from the North and the Countries of the southern mediterranean coast. Half of the industry in Tunisia and Morocco relies on the apparel sector. The new computer assisted expertise being developed through this projet is done by a joint effort of northern and southern academic and industrial partners. The introduction and dissemination of this technology within the apparel industry for the production of made-to-measure garments will strengthen these links and facilitate the co-operation. New markets for plus sizes will benefit to textile industry in developping countries both in the field of garment production as well as in the development of new technologies. The advantages of simulations of draping or alterations on 3D customer plus-size mannequins will be quickly understood by the clothing industry. It will allow to shorten the cycles for collection design and increase the made-to-measure garment quality. Draping simulation using fabric parameters will facilitate the use of more diverse types of materials for garment production.

The partners of the project are Accesit, Morocco, CAD Modelling srl, Italy; EMI, Morocco; INRIA; IRSIT, Tunisia; Lectra Systèmes, France; Société Moderne de Confection, Tunisia; Styl Plus, France; and ERCIM. MtoM3D is co-financed by the European Commission’s INCO-DC programme.

Please contact:

André Gagalowicz - INRIA
Tel: +33 1 3963 5408
E-mail: Andre.Gagalowicz@inria.fr

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